Warm colours are the most rewarding in make-up: they make skin look alive, take tiredness out of the face and suit candlelight as well as daylight. Yet they do not look the same on every skin. A peach blush that looks fresh on fair skin almost disappears on dark skin; a brick red that glows there can look harsh on very fair skin. So it is not about the colour but its depth – and about the rule of choosing everything from one family.
The one-family rule
Blush, lips and eyeshadow should come from the same colour family but not be identical. Warm with warm: terracotta on the cheeks, a slightly deeper brick red on the lips, copper or bronze on the eyes. As soon as a cool element slips in – a berry lipstick with peach blush – the face looks busy. If unsure, keep one of the three areas neutral: nude lip, warm eyes, warm blush.
Fair skin (N010 to N030)
Here warm tones quickly become too strong. Choose the lightest step of the family: peach or apricot as blush, a soft coral on the lips, champagne and light copper on the eyes. Blush only on the highest point of the cheek, blended up towards the temple – never towards the nose.
Medium and olive skin (N030 to N050, olive)
The most grateful group for warmth: terracotta and brick on the cheeks, a rich coral red or brick on the lips, bronze and copper on the eyes. On olive skin a touch of gold in the eyeshadow counters the yellow-green undertone; choose blush with a hint of red rather than pure orange.
Dark and deep skin (N050 to the W shades)
The deeper the skin, the more intense the colour may be so it stays visible. Brick red, rust and deep terracotta as blush, a red with orange or brown in it on the lips, copper, bronze and deep gold on the eyes. What looks like evening on fair skin is daytime make-up here. Pastel peach tones, however, disappear – they are the one step too light.
The products for it
INCEPTION Blush comes in six colours from soft rosé to warm tones for dark skin; the silky texture blends without patches. The angled blush brush No. 2 is ideal for applying it.
INCEPTION Rouge Lipstick has a velvety matte finish and medium to full coverage – the warm reds and browns work especially well on deep skin.
To the INCEPTION Rouge Lipstick
The eyeshadow refills in ten colours can be placed individually in the DUO or PRO palette – so you build exactly the warm family that suits your depth.
To the INCEPTION Eyeshadow Refills
Three mistakes that ruin warm tones
- Too much blush at once: better two thin layers than one opaque one.
- A grey powder cast on top: choose loose powder in your own depth, otherwise every warm colour looks dirty.
- Cool foundation under warm make-up: the undertone of the foundation decides whether terracotta glows or turns.